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News Release

Tuesday, 2 February 2010

The issue of ageability in South African Sauvignon Blanc

It’s a given these days that consumers regard South African Sauvignon Blanc as a wine that can’t age . In the case of well-made examples this is a misperception, which owes in large part to the way that the cultivar has been sold.

Replacing the category of ‘grand cru’ some years back, Sauvignon Blanc was relegated to the ranks of the “best had fresh” and there it has remained, at least in consumers’ minds. An agenda-setting exercise to investigate the issue was held in late January at Hidden Valley Wines.

Producing from a home cellar atop the Helderberg, the farm uses two vineyards to produce its Sauvignon Blanc – the first being the Helderberg vineyard for Hidden Valley Wines, the other the Elim vineyards for the Land’s End wines. These wines were shown in double-blind format, scrambled by region and vintage, including 2007, 2008 and 2009.

Participants included 20 of some of the best palates in the Cape; including Platter taster and Master of Wine Cathy van Zyl, with representation from amongst the fine wines retail trade, the Sauvignon Blanc Interest Group, noted wine judges and large distributors. The format was a survey of forced-choice questions with ample room for comment, and open discussion within the group at the end of the afternoon.

Hidden Valley winemaker Louis Nel opened the proceedings by discussing the four criteria used to define ageability on the survey form: fruit concentration, palate weight and fullness, palate length and wine complexity. Initial answers indicated that without exception, the group considered Sauvignon Blanc to be a cultivar that can age: given adequate starting quality, balance between structural elements - such as acid and tannin - and fruit; and more likely to happen with grapes grown in cooler climes.

Many respondents indicated that well-made older wines were preferred for their greater complexity - though this wasn’t seen as requisite for young wine to age well - greater overall balance and structural integration; and, most notably, more balanced acidity. Greater length and palate weight were considered features of older wines, with tertiary vegetal flavours, truffle-like character, and general food-friendliness seen as additional virtues.

In the forced-choice answers, all six wines fared well; with the Semillon-blended Land’s End emerging the clear winner in all four categories. Interestingly the best was revealed to be the youngest vintage: the Land’s End Sauvignon Blanc 2009. This stimulated comment on the excellent vintage it was for Sauvignon Blanc – the best in decades according to most; and the pivotal role played by the addition of Semillon as a low-acid component to balance acidic wines.

The Hidden Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 placed second in the ratings; followed by the earlier vintage, 2008. This contrasted with comments made in the open discussion, where 2008 was seen as rather a poor vintage for the cultivar: and indeed the Land’s End 2008 ranked sixth on the survey forms.

All of the wines were seen as balanced and elegant, “difficult to distinguish” and sure to gain complexity with age. The issue of screw caps was raised; the point being made that the long-term integrity of the closure is yet to be proved.

All agreed in open discussion that not all Sauvignon Blancs age well, with many wines being made for drinking young. It would therefore be helpful to establish a point of reference for the wine consumer, clearly identifying wines that have been deemed as suitable to age. The Sauvignon Blanc Interest Group was seen as a possible body to make the determination, perhaps marking appropriate wines with a neck tag or similar.

Hand-selling of older wines was seen as requisite: a point with which fine wine purveyors readily agreed. The question was raised as to whether retailers should discount older wines or price them higher and promote their desirability, with most agreeing that hand-sells made the latter possible; this being seen further as fine-wine retailers’ responsibility.

It was agreed that now is the ideal time for changing consumer perceptions given the growing consumer fatigue with Sauvignon Blanc of lesser palate weight and higher acidity. Consumers are now turning to Chardonnay and fresh Chenin Blanc, potentially forcing the hand of producers who favour Sauvignon Blanc to produce the wine in a more evolved style.

Further research is indicated with older vintage wines; perhaps using an “honour roll” of consumer favourites. Possibilities include:

• More thorough investigation into inter-regional differences, particularly as regards warmer and cooler climes;
• Clearer definition of ‘ageability’, with a broader list of criteria identified;
• Inclusion of vintages dating back 20 years or more;
• A closer look at the role played by blending with other cultivars; especially those that balance out acidity in a wine.

Producers wishing to participate in further survey research are invited to email erica@melespr.co.za.

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